And as Geezer has previously pointed out, that same grain (annular growth rings) of the crossbow arrow must be at 90 degrees to the string when loaded.
Our crossbow shafts endure much more force than do wooden arrows of some 28" or more in length, shot from bows! Such conventional arrows are typically protected by a female nock that encloses the grain of a wooden shaft. With all due respect I think we should be careful about adopting traditional archery methods when our needs are for crossbows. They're a bit of complexity in the sense of prep and machinery used, but it wouldn't leave me alone, so here it is.Ī truly wicked way of making shafts.a planer/jointer with a special order or in any other way specially modified planer/jointer blade.check it out. While going through traditional archery forums there was an example of large scale shaft making operation and their equipment. There is a good example of one on the Russian forum, so I'll do some digging.till then there's this crude, yet still worthy of your attention."I make round stick with the saw blade" You mentioned a few variations of jigs through which you can push a roughly shaped blank and it comes out a finished shaft.requiring only minor sanding/finishing.I've seen one rather simple ones built on the principal of a pencil sharpener.
On the other hand I've always been on the side of power-tools and have seen some very impressive results.
This is probably as "traditional" as it gets.and probably one of the cleanest, quietest, fastest, and simplest ways of getting it done. The latter works ok if the crossbow is not very powerful or if you don't mind making the shafts thick. As shaft material I use whatever I have at hand, but usually birch (a medium-weight hardwood) or European pine (softwood). If the grain is violated badly, the bolt will inevitably break. Splitting allows me to abandon crooked pieces of wood early on. I often make the shafts of my bolts by splitting them from logs and then planing them: Depending on the amount of compression this should work even better than foamed plastic. It seems that this kind of backstop does not work as well with bolts that have cutting edges I assume this is because the blades cut a wide hole into the foam, letting the shaft pass through it with very little friction.Īnother idea I've played with is piling newspapers (lots of them) on top of each other and compressing them slightly. thick plywood) should suffice, especially if you leave a little space between the plastic foam layers (to let friction do it's thing). Around 20cm (8") layer with a harder backstop (e.g. Doesn't cost a dime and stops pretty much all bolts very cleanly and safely. I use foam plastic I've looted from abandoned sofas, beds and such. See other posts on this forum for target construction ideas.
Half inch plywood is not enough and you should be using a better target medium. What material have your broken bolts been made from? Two hundred pounds of draw weight produces a lot of energy and thus heavy bolts or arrows are needed to absorb first the force of being propelled and then perhaps hitting a hard target. Pavise wrote:Hi Luis and welcome to the forum. » need help contacting le musee Dauphinois Grenoble » Skane/Lillohus lockbow information needed » 400lb Windlass crossbow bolts weight and accuracy shooting high. » prod angle, and lever trigger for sale anyone? » Questions around heavy crossbow lath buildin
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